INSTRUCTIONS TO CANDIDATES
- Candidates MUST use machine stitches appropriately in the construction of the garment.
- Hand stitches used instead of machine stitches will not be marked.
- Hand stitches will only be allowed for the making of loop, worked buttonhole tacking stitches.
GIRL'S SKIRT
A pattern of a girl's skirt is provided. You are advised to study the sketches, instructions and layout carefully before you begin the test.
MATERIALS PROVIDED
- Pattern Pieces
- — Skirt back
- — Yoke (front)
- — Lower skirt (front)
- — Front waistband
- — Back waistband
- — Frill
- Plain lightweight cotton fabric 56 cm long by 90 cm wide.
- Sewing thread to match the fabric.
- One large envelope.
THE TEST
Using the materials provided, cut out and make the left half of the girl's skirt to show the following processes:
- Cutting out. (18 marks)
- Making of the dart at the back skirt. (6½ marks)
- Joining of the yoke front to the lower skirt front using an overlaid seam. Neaten half the seam using loop stitches. (12 marks)
- Attaching of the frill to the lower skirt front using a plain seam. Leave the gathering stitches and do not trim the seam allowance. (11 marks)
- Making of the skirt side seam from the yoke to the hemline using an open seam. (7 marks)
- Attaching of the front and back waistbands and holding them in place using even tacking stitches. (20 marks)
- Making of the worked buttonhole. (12 marks)
- OMIT The management of the skirt hem.
- Overall presentation. (6½marks)
At the end of the examination, firmly sew onto your work, on a single fabric, a label bearing your name and index number. Remove needles, pins and loose threads from your work. Fold your work neatly and place it in the envelope provided. Do not put scraps of fabric in the envelope. Do not seal the envelope.
MARKING SCHEME
|
DESCRIPTION |
MAXIMUM SCORE |
ACTUAL SCORE |
REMARKS |
1. |
PRESENTATION |
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- Work well pressed(½) and folded (½)
- Label (½) firmly fixed (½) without concealing details(½) and on a single fabric(½)
- Pins/ needles (½) and unnecessary tacking threads(½) and hanging threads (½) removed
- Made up for the left half(1)
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1
2
1½ 1
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Sub- total |
5½ |
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2. |
CUTIING OUT |
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- All ten pieces cut out (10 x½)
- Smooth cutting of the skirt at CF (1) on straight grain (1) within 2 mm
- Smooth cutting of the skirt at CB (1) on straight grain (1) within 2 mm
- Lower edge of frill (1) and lower edge of skirt (1) smoothly cut
- Waistband CB smoothly cut (½x3) on straight grain (½x3)
- Waistband CF smoothly cut (½x3) on straight grain (½x3)
- Smooth cutting of yoke (1) and on a straight grain (1)
- Smooth cutting of frill CF (½) on grain (½)
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5
2
2
2
3 3
2 1
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Sub- total |
20 |
|
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3. |
DART |
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- Straight stitchery (1) tapering to a point (½)
- Threads ends well fastened at the point (1)
- Correct length of the dart 8cm to within 2 mm (7.8 cm-8.2 cm (1)
- Correct width of the dart 1 cm to within 2 mm (0.8 cm -1.2 cm) (1)
- Dart pressed (½) towards C.B(½)
- Flatness of dart onR.S (½) and W.S (½) (NO pockets formed)
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1½ 1
1
1 1
1
|
|
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Sub- total |
6½ |
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4. |
YOKE (If not overlaid seam award zero) |
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- Front yoke folded on seamline (1)
- Placed on fitting line of lower skirt front (1)
- Notches matching (1)
- Straight stitchery (1) at the edge of the fold to within 2 mm (1)
- Overlaid seam turning facing up towards waist (½) and even (½)
- Seam trimmed 1 cm from fitting line to within 2 mm (08 cm-1.2 cm) )
- Flatness of yoke on R. S (1)
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1 1 1
2
1
1 1
|
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Sub- total |
8 |
|
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5. |
NEATING OF THE OVERLAID SEAM (if not loop stitches award zero) |
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- Loop stiches evenly spaced (1) and even in length (1).
- Seam halfway neatened (1) and stitches securely fastened on (½) and off(½)
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2
2
|
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Sub- total |
4 |
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6. |
FRILL |
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- Two rows of gathering stitches above (1) and below (1) the stitching line
- Gathers evenly distributed (no pleats or clusters) (2)
- Frill attached with straight stitchery (2)
- Notches matching (1)
- Correct size of seam allowance (1) 1.5 cm to within 2 mm(1.3 cm-1.7 cm) and evenness (1) of the seam allowance
- Seam allowance pressed flat (½) facing upward (½)
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2 2 2 1
2 1
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Sub- total |
10 |
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7. |
OPEN SEAM (If not open seam award zero) |
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- Seam jointed with straight stitchery (1½) and well secured at the yoke or hemline band (½)
- Seam appropriately neatened (1x 2)
- Evenness of seam allowance (½ x2)
- Correct width 1 cm to within 2 mm on either side (0.8 cm -1.2 cm) (½ x 2)
- Seams turning folded (½) and flat(½) at he waistband
|
2
2 1 1
1
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Sub- total |
7 |
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8. |
WAISTBAND |
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- Waistband joined with straight stitchery (mark by impression) (2)
- Seam trimmed (1) snipped (1½) with sharp corners (½x3)
- Waistband well knife edged (½x2)
- Back waistband extension 3 cm to within 5 mm (2.5cm- 3.5 m) (1)
- Waistband correctly attached with straight stitchery (1x 2) and trimmed (½ x2)
- Raw edges of waistband well tucked under (1 x2)
- Flatness of waistband on R.S (1) and W.S (1)
- Evenness of the waistband R.S (1)
- Correct width of waistband 3 cm to within 3 mm (2.7 cm-3.3 cm) (1)
- Waistband CF flash with C.F of oke (½) and C.B of skirt back ( ½)
- Tacking stitches even (½) and straight (½), firm (½) made using single tread (½)
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2
4
1 1
3 2 2 1
1 1
2
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Sub- total |
20 |
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9. |
WORKED BUTTON HOLE (ONE ROUND END)(If not buttonhole award zero from C to F). |
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- Correct position(½) and size (½) of buttonhole (mark by impression)
- Buttonhole cut straight (½) and worked with single thread(½)
- Buttonhole worked with even (1) correct tension (1) and well distributed (1) buttonhole stitches
- Round end worked with even (1) and well distributed (1) overcasting stitches
- Square end completed with a bar (½) worked with even buttonhole stitches (½)
- Raw edges (½x 2) concealed by theb utton hole stitches on the right side.
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1 1
3
2
2
1
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Sub- total |
9 |
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TOTAL |
90 |
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Actual score FINAL MARK= 2 |
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