A pattern of a boy’s shirt is provided. You are advised to study the sketches, instructions and the layout carefully before you begin the test.
MATERIALS PROVIDED:
- Pattern pieces:
A - Shirt front with facing
B - Shirt back
C - Pocket
D – Collar - Light weight plain cotton fabric 50 cm long by 90 cm wide
- Sewing thread to match the fabric
- One large envelope.
THE TEST
Using the materials provided, cut out and make up the LEFT HALF of the shirt to show the following processes.
- Cutting out (14 mrks)
- Making of a double stitched seam at the shoulder (8 mrks)
- Making of the side seam using an open seam (8 ½ mrks)
- Preparation and attachment of the collar (24 mrks)
- Preparation and attachment of the patch pocket (15 ½ mrks)
- Management of the hem using hemming stitches. (shirt front only) (6 ½ mrks)
- Making of a buttonhole by hand (7 mrks)
- Overall presentation (6 ½ mrks)
At the end of the examination, firmly sew onto your work, on a single fabric, a label bearing your name and index number. Remove the needle and pins from your work, then fold your work neatly and place it in the envelope provided. Do not put scraps of fabric in the envelope.
MARKING SCHEME
1 |
PRESENTATION |
SCORE |
MAX |
a) b) c) d) |
Work well pressed (1) and folded (½) Label (½) firmly fixed (1) without concealing details ( ½ ) On a single fabric ( ½ ) Pins/Needles ( ½ ) and unnecessary tacking thread (½) and loose threads (½) removed. Made up for the left half |
1 ½ 2 ½
1 ½ 1 |
6 ½ |
2. |
CUTTING OUT |
|
|
a) b) c) d) e) |
All six pieces cut out ( ½ x 6) Smooth cutting of C.B. (2) and cut on grain (2) Smooth cutting of collar (3 x ½ ) and cut on grain (3 x ½ ) Smooth cutting of front armhole (2) Smooth cutting of back armhole (2) |
3 4 3 2 2
|
14 |
3. |
DOUBLE STITCHED SEAM |
|
|
a) b) c) d) e) f) |
(If not double, give zero First row of stitchery made with straight stitches Raw edges well tucked under. Second row of stitchery made with straight stitches (1) and on W.S (1) Evenness of seam (1) and correct size 0.6 cm (1) Flatness of seam on R.S. ( ½ ) and on W.S ( ½ ) Fell facing back on shirt (1) |
1 1
2 2 1 1
|
8 |
4. |
SIDE SEAM (OPEN SEAM) |
|
|
a) b) c) d) e) |
(If not open, give zero) Seam joined with straight stitchery Well neatened raw edges (1x2) Evenness of seam allowance Correct size of seam allowance 1 cm Seam pressed open ½ and flat at the hem R.S ( ½ ) and ( ½ ) W.S |
1 2 2 2 1 ½
|
8 ½ |
5. |
COLLAR |
|
|
a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) i) j) k) l) m) n) |
Collar well interfaced Smooth outer edge of collar Collar seam trimmed (1) and snipped (1) Collar well knife edged (1) with a sharp point (1) Correct shape (1) and size (1) Flatness of attached collar R.S (1) and W.S (1) Collar attached by sandwiching between shirt front and facing Attaching seam made with straight stitchery Seam trimmed (1) and snipped (1) Positioning of collar C.F of shirt flash with CF of collar ( ½ ) and C.B of shirt flash with CB of collar ( ½ ) Quality of hemming stitches Quality of neatening the free edge of facing Facing firmly held ( ½ ) at the shoulder ( ½ ) Collar top stitch |
2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 2
1 2 2 1 2
|
24 |
6. |
PATCH POCKET |
|
|
a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) i) |
Hem correctly finished i.e. raw edges well tucked under. Straight stitchery of pocket hem. Attached with straight stitchery ( ½ x 3) close to edge ( ½ x 3) Raw edges of seam well tucked under ( ½ x 3) Seam pivoted at the corners ( ½ x 3) Pocket mouth reinforced ( ½ x 2) Seam allowance trimmed ( ½ x 4) and snipped at the corners ( ½ x 3) Flatness of attached pocket on the R.S ( ½ ) and W.S ( ½ ) Correct shape (1) and size (1) of attached pocket. |
1 1 3 1 ½ 1 ½ 1 3 ½ 1 2
|
15 ½ |
7. |
SHIRT HEM (Machine stitched) |
|
|
a) b) c) d) e) |
Straight Machine stitchery Evenness of hem Size of hem to within 5 mm Flatness of hem R.S ( ½ ) and W.S ( ½ ) Hem appropriately finished at the C.F (1) With a pointed corner (1) and trimmed ( ½ ) |
1 1 1 1
2 ½
|
6 ½ |
8. |
BUTTON HOLE |
|
|
a) b) c) d) e) f) |
Correct position (½) and size (½) of button hole. Buttonhole cut straight ( ½ ) and worked with single thread ( ½ ) First side ( ½ ) and second side ( ½ ) of button hole worked with even (½ ) and well distributed ( ½ ) buttonhole stitches. Square ends worked with well distributed stitches ( ½ x 2) Square ends completed with a bar ( ½ x 2) Raw edges ( ½ x 2) concealed by the button hole stitches |
1 1
2 1 1 1
|
7 |
TOTAL |
90
|
|
|
FINAL MARK = Actual score |
45 |
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