INSTRUCTIONS TO CANDIDATES
- The paper consists of three pages
GIRL’S SKIRT
A pattern of a girl’s skirt is provided. You are advised to study the sketches, instructions and layout carefully before you begin the test.
MATERIALS PROVIDED
- Pattern pieces
- Skirt back
- Yoke (front)
- Lower skirt (front)
- Front waistband
- Back waistband
- Frill
- Plain lightweight cotton fabric 56cm long and 90cm wide.
- Sewing thread to match the fabric.
- One large envelope.
THE TEST
Using the materials provided, cut out and make the LEFT HALF of the SKIRT to show the following processes:
- Cutting out. (18marks)
- Making the dart at the back skirt. (6 ½ marks)
- Joining of the yoke front to the lower skirt front using an overlaid seam. Do not trim. Neaten half the seam using loop stitches. (12marks)
- Attaching of the frill to the lower skirt front using a plain seam. Leave the gathering stitches and do not trim the seam allowance. (11marks)
- Making of the skirt side seam from the yoke to the hemline using an open seam. (7marks)
- Attaching of the front and back waistbands and holding them in place using tacking stitches.[20marks)
- Making of the worked buttonhole. (9marks)
- OMIT
The management of the skirt hem.
- Overall presentation. (6½marks)
At the end of the examination, firmly sew onto your work, on a single fabric, a label bearing your name and admission number. Remove the needle, pins and loose threads from your work. Fold your work neatly and place it in the envelope provided.
Do not put scraps of fabric in the envelope. Do not seal the envelope.
SKIRT VIEWS
LAYOUT (not drawn to scale)
MARKING SCHEME
NO. |
AREAS OF ASSESSMENT |
MAX SCORE |
ACTUAL SCORE |
REMARKS |
1. |
PRESENTATION
- Work well pressed (1) and folded ( ½ )
- label ( ½) firmly fixed (1) without concealing details ( ½) and on a single fabric ( ½ )
- pins /Needles ( ½) unnecessary tacking threads ( ½ ) and loose threads ( ½ ) removed
- Made up for the right half.
|
1½
2½
1½ 1 |
|
|
|
TOTAL |
6½ |
|
|
2. |
CUTTING OUT
- All ten pieces cut out (10 x ½ )
- Smooth cutting of the skirt at CB (1) on straight grain (1)
- Smooth cutting of the skirt at C.B (1) And cut on straight grain (1) to within 3 mm.
- Lower edge of frill smoothly cut (1)
- waistband CB smoothly cut ( ½ on straight ( ½ x 2)
- waistband CF cut smoothly cut at (½ ) on straight grain
( 1½ )
- Smooth cutting of the yoke of lower edge front (1) and back (1)
- smooth cutting of frill CF ( 1 ½ on straight grain. ( ½ )
|
5 2 2
1 2 2
2
2
|
|
|
|
Sub-total |
18 |
|
|
3. |
DART
- Straight stitchery (1) tapering to point ( ½ )
- thread ends well fastened at the point.( ½)
- Correct length of the dart 8cm to within 2mm
(7.8 cm – 8.2cm) ( 1 )
- correct width of dart 1cm to within 2mm (0.8 -1.2 cm)(1)
- Dart pressed ( ½ ) towards C.B.( ½ )
- Flatness of dart on R.S ( ½ and W.S ( ½ ) No pockets formed)
|
1 ½
1 1 1 1
|
|
|
|
Sub-total |
6½ |
|
|
4 |
YOKE
(If not overlaid seam award zero) (0)
- Front yoke folded on seam line
- placed on fitting line of lower skirt front.
- Notches matching
- Straight stitchery (1) at the edge of the fold to within 2mm (1)
- Overlaid seam turning facing up towards waist ( ½ ) and even (½ )
- seam allowance 1.5cm from fitting line to within 2mm (1.3cm -1.7cm)
- Flatness of yoke on R.S only
|
1
1
2 1
1
1
1 |
|
|
|
Sub-total |
8 |
|
|
5 |
NEATENING OF THE OVERLAID SEAM (if not loop stitches award zero)
- loop stitches evenly spaced (1) and even in length (1)
- seam halfway neatened (1) and stitches securely fastened on ( ½) and off ( ½)
|
2 2
|
|
|
|
Sub-total |
4 |
|
|
6 |
FRILL
- Two rows of gathering stitches above (1) and below (1) the stitching line.
- Gathers evenly distributed (no pleats or clusters)
- Frill attached with straight stitchery
- Notches matching
- Correct size of seam allowance (1) 1.5cm to within 2mm (1.3cm – 1.7cm) and evenness (1) of the seam allowance.
- Seam allowance pressed flat ( ½ ) facing upwards ( ½)
- Gathering stitches not removed ( ½ x 2)
|
2
2 2 1 2
1 1
|
|
|
|
Sub-total |
11 |
|
|
7 |
OPEN SEAM
(If not open seam award zero)
- Seam joined with straight stitchery (1 ½ ) and well secured at the yoke or the hemline.( ½ )
- seam approximately and neated ( 1 x2)
- Evenness of seam allowance ( ½ x 2)
- Correct width 1cm to within 2 mm on either side (0.8cm –1.2cm) ( ½ x2)
- Seam open and flat ( ½ )
|
2 2 1 1
1
|
|
|
|
Sub-total |
7 |
|
|
8 |
WAISTBAND
- waistband joined with straight stitchery
- seam trimmed (2) snipped (1) with sharp points ( ½ x 2)
- Waistband well knife edged( ½ x 2)
- Back waistband extension 3cm to within 5mm (2.5 cm 3.5cm)
- Waistband correctly attached with straight stitchery (1x 2) and trimmed ( ½ x 2)
- Raw edges of waistband well trucked under ( 1 x2)
- Flatness of waistband on R.S (1) and (W.S)(1)
- Evenness of the waistband (R S) only
- Correct width of waistband 3cm to within 3mm 2.7cm 3.2cm)
- Waistband edges flash with C.F ( ½ ) and (C.B) ½
- Tacking stitches even (1/2) and straight 1/2 firm ½ and single thread ½
|
2 4 1 1
3
2 2 1
1 1 2
|
|
|
|
Sub-total |
20 |
|
|
9. |
WORKED BUTTON HOLE (ONE ROUND END) IF not buttonhole stitches award zero)
- Correct position ( ½ ) and size ( ½) of buttonhole (mark by impression)
- Buttonhole cut straight ( ½ ) and worked with single thread
( ½)
- First side ( ½ ) and second side ( ½ ) of buttonhole worked with even ( ½ ) well distributed ( ½ ) buttonhole stitches.
- Round end worked with well distributed (1) overcasting stitches (1)
- Square end completed with a bar (1) worked with even buttonhole stitches (1)
- Raw edges ( ½ x 2) concealed by the buttonhole stitches.
|
1
1
2
2
2 1
|
|
|
|
Sub- total |
9 |
|
|
TOTAL 90 MARKS
FINAL MARK 90/2
ACTUAL SCORE 45