QUESTIONS
GIRL'S DRESS
A pattern of a girl's dress is provided. You are advised to study the sketches, instructions and layout carefully before you begin the test.
MATERIALS PROVIDED
- Pattern Pieces
- Bodice front
- Bodice back
- Skirt back
- Skirt front
- Sleeve
- Sleeve facing
- Front neck facing
- Back neck facing
- Plain lightweight, light coloured cotton fabric 60 cm long by 90 cm wide.
- Sewing thread tomatch the fabric
- One large envelope.
THE TEST
Using the materials provided, lay, cut out and make one side of a girl's dress to show the following processes:
- Cutting out.(10% marks)
- Making of the front and back skirt darts.(11 marks)
- Making of the shoulder seam using a french seam.(7 marks)
- Making of the side seam on the bodice and skirt using an open seam.(13 marks)
- Preparing and attaching the sleeve; holding down the sleeve facing using long and short tacking stitches. (Do not remove the gathering stitches at the crown).(19% marks)
- Attaching the bodice to the skirt using a plain seam.(10 marks)
- Preparing and attaching the facings to the neckline.(9 marks)
- Finishing the dress hem with tacking stitches and holding down a quarter of the hem using hemming stitches.(4 marks)
- Overall presentation.(5 marks)
Marking Scheme
- PRESENTATION
- Work well pressed (1) and folded (1⁄2)
- Label (1⁄2) firmly stitched (1) without concealing details (1⁄2) and on a single fabric (1⁄2)
- Pins/needles (1⁄2), and unnecessary threads (1⁄2)
- CUTTING OUT
- All eight pieces (8 x 1⁄2) cut-out
- Smooth cutting of skirt CB (1) and on straight grain (1) to within 2 mm
- Smooth cutting of the skirt CF (1) and on straight grain (1) to within 2 mm
- Smooth cutting of bodice CB (1) and on straight grain within 2mm
- Smooth cutting of bodice CT (1) and on straight grain (1) to within 2 mm
- Cutting of the sleeve on straight grain (1)
- Cutting of front facing CT (1⁄2) and on straight grain to within 2 mm.
- Cutting of the back facing CB (1⁄2) and on straight grain to within 2 mm
- DARTS
- Straight stitching (1 x 2) tapering to nothing ( 1⁄2 x2)
- Threads well fastened at the point (1⁄2 x2)
- Correct length of front dart 8 cm to within 2 mm
(7.8cm-8.2cm) (1) and back dart 8 cm to within 2 mm (7.8 cm-8.2 cm) (1) - Correct width of dart 1.1 cm to within 2 mm
(0.9 cm-1.3 cm) (1x2) - Back dart pressed towards CB (1⁄2) and front dart
pressed towards CF (1⁄2) - Flatness of dart on R.S. (1⁄2 x 2) and
WS.
- SHOULDER SEAM (FRENCH SEAM)
(If not French seam, award zero(0))- Seam joined with straight stitching (1)
- Seam well-trimmed (1⁄2), no threads on R.S (1⁄2)
- Seam well knife-edged (1)
- Evenness of seam (1)
- Correct size (6 mm) to within 2mm
(4mm-8 mm) (1) - Seam pressed towards the back (1⁄2x2)
- Flatness of seam at shoulder (1⁄2) and at neckline
- SIDE SEAM (OPEN SEAM)
( if not open award zero)- Seam joined with straight stitching (skirt (2), bodice (1)
- Evenness of seam (skirt (1), bodice (1⁄2)
- Raw edges well neatened (2)
- Seam pressed open (6) and flat (1⁄2) on W.S. (1⁄2) and R.S. (1⁄2)
- Width of scam 1.0 cm to within.
2 mm (0.8 cm-1.2 cm) (1x2) - Skirt seam flash with bodice seam (6) to within 2
- SLEEVE
- Good hang (1)
- Two lines of gathering stitches made (2)
- Gathers well distributed at the crown (1)
- Underarm seam joined with straight stitching (1)
- Underarm seam well neatened (1)
- Evenness of neatened seam (1)
- Underarm seam open (6) and flat (1⁄2)
- Front notches (1⁄2) and hack notches (1⁄2) matching to within 2 mm
- Side seam flash with underarm seam to within 2 mm (1)
- Facing joined (1), attached (2) and turned to the right side (1)
- Facing seam flash with underarm seam to within 2 mm at the lower (1⁄2) and at the upper (1⁄2) section
- Facing held down with long and short tacking (1)
- Quality of tacking stitches (long and short) (2)
- WAIST SEAM
If not plain, award zero(0))- Scams matching at CF (1⁄2) and CD (1⁄2)
- Front notches (1⁄2 x 2) and back notches (1⁄2 x 2) matching to within 2 mm
- Seam made with straight stitching (2)
- Seam pressed towards bodice (1)
- Evenness of seam allowance 1.5 cm (2)
- NECK FACING
- Back and front facing joined with straight stitch- ing (1⁄2) seam trimmed (1⁄2) and pressed open (1⁄2) (b)
- Facing attached to neckline with smooth stitching (1)
- Seam trimmed (1), snipped (1) (see through light), under stitched (1) and edge-stitched (1)
- Facing scam and shoulder seam meeting to within 2 mm at the neckline (1⁄2), at the shoulder
- Flatness of neck facing (1). (Do not award if not held at CF and CB with a stitch)
- HEM MANAGEMENT
If not hemming stitch, award zero (0))- Raw edges of her well tucked under
- Hemming stitches not showing on R.S. (1⁄2)
- Hemming stitches evenly (1) spaced, of same depth and tension
- Flatness of the whole hem (1)
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