QUESTIONS
A pattern of a blouse is provided. You are advised to study the sketches, instructions and the layout carefully before you begin the test.
MATERIALS PROVIDED
- Pattern pieces
- FRONT BODICE
- BACK BODICE
- SLEEVE
- FRONT YOKE
- COLLAR
- FRONT FACING
- BACK NECK FACING
- Plain light weight cotton fabric 70 by 90 cm.
- Sewing thread to match the fabric.
- Elastic cord 18 cm long by 1/2cm wide
- Safety pin/bodkin
- 1 large envelope.
THE TEST
Using the materials provided, cut out and make up the LEFT HALF of the blouse to show the following.
- Cutting out. (18mks)
- Working a double pointed dart at the back bodice (7mks)
- Working of the inverted pleat on the front yoke (3mks)
- Joining the front bodice to the front yoke using an overlaid seam (81/2mks)
- Joining the joint front bodice to back bodice at the shoulder using double stitched seam. (6mks)
- Joining the joint front bodice to back bodice at the side using an open seam. (4mks)
- Joiningthe front facing to the back neck facing and neatening the free edge of the joined facing (61/2mks)
- Preparation of the interfaced collar (31/2mks)
- Usethe joined facing to neaten the front opening and attach the collar by sandwiching method. (71/2mks)
- Working of the sleeve to include.
- Management of fullness at the crown. (21/2mks)
- Making of the underarm seam using French seam. (71/2mks)
- Joining of the sleeve to the garment at the armhole. (Do not trim, do not neaten)(6mks)
- Working of the elastic casing at the lower edge of the sleeveand insertingthe elastic cord. Do not seal the opening used to insert the cord (41/2mks)
Presentation. (51/2mks)
NOTE:
At the end of the test, firmly sew on to your work on a single fabric a label bearing your name and admission number. Remove needles and pins from work. Then fold your work carefully and place it in the envelope. DO NOT PUT SCRAPS OF MATERIALS IN THE ENVELOPE AND DO NOT SEAL THE ENVELOPE.
LAYOUT – NOT DRAWN TO SCALE
MARKING SCHEME
1. |
PRESENTATION |
MAX. SCORE |
ACTUAL SCORE |
REMARKS |
|
a. Work well pressed and folded b. Label clearly written name, Adm, Class. c. Label stitched on a single fabric without concealing details d. Unnecessary hanging threads, tacking and pins removed e. Made up the left half |
1 11/2 1 11/2 1/2 |
||
Sub Total |
51/5 |
|||
2. |
CUTTING OUT AND GRAINING |
|||
a. All eight pieces cut out b. Smooth cutting of the front bodice and on straight on CF c. Smooth cutting of back bodice and on straight grain at CB d. Smooth cutting of the front yoke and on straight grain at the CF e. Smooth cutting of collar, under collar and interfacing and on straight grain at CB f. Smooth cutting of back neck facing and on straight grain at CB |
4 2 2 2 6 2 |
|||
|
Sub Total |
18 |
||
3. |
WORKING OF DOUBLE POINTED DART |
|
||
|
a. Straight firmly and straightly done b. Tapering to nothing on both ends and without pockets. c. Well reinforced on both ends. d. Slashed at the centre and well neatened. e. Correct size (Length and width) f. Well pressed and flat. |
1
1 1 2 1 1 |
||
|
Sub total |
7 |
||
4. |
INVERTED PLEAT ON THE FRONT YOKE |
|
||
|
|
1 1 1 |
||
|
Sub Total |
3 |
||
5 |
JOINING FRONT BODICE TO THE FRONT YOKE WITH OVERLAID SEAM {If not give zero} |
|||
|
a. Overlay folded to the WS at the stitching line b. Overlay placed on the underlay’s stitching line on the RS c. Seam stitched with straight and firm stitchery and close to the fold d. Appropriate neatening stitches used. (if not give zero from d to g) e. Evenness and correct tension of stitches f. Firm and neat stiches g. Fastened on and off h. Seam well pressed and flat |
1 11/2 11/2 ½ 1 1 1 1 |
||
|
Sub total |
81/2 |
||
6 |
JOINING THE FRONT BODICE TO THE BACK BODICE AT THE SHOULDER WITH DOUBLE STICHED SEAM |
|||
|
a. 1st line done with firm and straight stitchery b. Raw edge neatly tucked in to conceal raw edge c. 2nd line done with firm and straight stitches and close to the fold d. Correct size of complete seam (0.6cm to within 2mm) e. Evenness of the seam f. Seam folded to the back
|
1 1 11/2 ½ ½ ½ 1 |
||
Sub Total |
6 |
|||
7. |
JOINING THE FRONT BODICE TO THE BACK AT THE SIDE WITH (OPEN SEAM) If not give zero |
|
||
|
|
1 1/2 1 1/2 1 |
||
|
Sub Total |
4 |
||
8. |
JOINING FRONT AND BACK NECK FACING |
|||
|
1 1 1 1 1/2 2 |
|||
Sub Total |
61/2 |
|||
9 |
PREPARATION AND ATTACHMENT OF INTERFACED COLLAR |
|
||
PREPARATION (a) Collar interfaced (b) Collar joined with smoothly curved and firm Stitchery. (c) Seam allowance evenly trimmed and curved areas snipped (d) Well knife-edge collar with smooth curve ATTACHMENT (a) Collar attached to the dress by sandwiching wit firm and curved stitchery (b) Seam turnings trimmed and snipped (c) Correct positioning of the collar (d) Correct size and shape of the collar (e) Collar flat on both sides (f) Joined facing turned to WS to neaten the neckline (g)Collar flashing with blouse back at CB to within 2 mm |
1/2 1 1 1 11/2 1 1 1 1 1 1 |
|||
Sub Total |
11 |
|||
10. |
PREPARATION AND ATTACHMENT OF THE SLEEVE |
|||
a. Gathers made on the expected part of the sleeve b. Forming gathers and not pleats. c. Gathers evenly distributed. d. Gathering stitches removed |
1/2 1/2 1 1/2 |
|||
Sub total |
21/2 |
|||
B. UNDER ARM SEAM (FRENCH SEAM (if not give zero) a) First line of stitches done with firm and straight stitchery. b) Second line of stitches done with firm and straight stitchery. c) Raw edges completely concealed d) Seam well knife edged e) Correct size of the finished seam 0.6cm to within 2mm f) Evenness of the seam g) Seam pressed flat to the CB at the armhole and at the casing |
1 1 1/2 1 1 1 2 |
|||
Sub total |
71/2 |
|||
|
1 1 1 1 1 ½ ½ |
|||
Sub total |
6 |
|||
D. CASING AND ELASTICATION a) Raw edges completely tucked in b) Hem held using machine stitches c) Correct size of the casing (1.5cm to within 2mm) d) Elastic inserted and overlapped 1.5cm and joined with overcasting stitches e) Opening not closed |
1 1 1 1 1/2 |
|||
Sub total |
41/2 |
|||
G R A N D T O T A L |
90/2 |
X/2 |
CONFIDENTIAL
- Plain light weight cotton fabric 70 by 90cm.
- Sewing thread to match the fabric.
- Elastic 18cm long by ½ cm wide
- Bodkin/ safety pin
- 1 large envelope.
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